As Bill wrote to a friend on the 6th of May:

“This morning we awoke to find our beehives and bird feeders all torn asunder.  I had just spent $170 for 2 packages of new bees and they had just released the queens and were just getting settled in their new homes when this happened.

I spent the day rebuilding the hives and installing an electric fence around the hives.  If you hang some bacon on the wires, so we hear, the bears wrap their tongue and lips around it and get a good jolt.. We are eagerly awaiting their shocking bellows.

A mother and two cubs and another solo have been raising havoc in the neighborhood.  DEC said that, since the bees are livestock, I can shoot the bears.  They will give me a permit for and provide me with, rubber buckshot if I wish.  They would also like to come and grab these animals so for to give them a collar…  Once they have good data to justify a hunting season they will allow hunting for them in this county.

In 1990 there were @ 400 bears in the Catskills (across the river). By 2005 the population had grown to 4,000 to 5,000.  @ 500 were taken there last fall….” 

 So far Bill’s fence has not been challenged – or at least we have heard no bellows and the bacon appears undisturbed. (More points for crow smarts? They are expert compost-pickers, ever alert for a bit of protein, but they haven’t come near those wires, even though they should be immune.)

Here are the fence details Bill sent to Dan, should you wish to build a solar powered electric bear deterrent around anything:

“ I went ahead with the more expensive unit (Zareba SP10). It also happened to be just about what Cornell and Bee Culture (via Cornell apiarist) recommend. It puts out just about 5,000 volts and 0.17 joules.

It is good to see it snapping sparks for @ 3/16 inch over the raindrops!!! 

I strung my wires alternating hot (+) and ground (-) with the lowest wire 6″ above the ground and the top wire ground (-) for lightning protection.   Since I used steel posts the ground wires are wrapped directly onto the posts.  I used 12 gauge copper jump wire to connect the hot wires as well as for the lead from the controller. I suspect I could make a slight improvement if I grounded the unit to the steel posts as well as the usual ground rods.

See the 2 links below for more info, which I suspect you have already seen…