Friends and Foes

Vegetable Gardening for Smarties (not Dummies)

Yes, yes, I know: “for dummies” is just a convenient code that means “for non-experts, in non-technical language,” but if I live to be a million I’ll never understand what’s dumb about wanting that.

part of our Hudson Valley vegetable garden

In Kitchen and Garden has always been In Garden for Kitchen as much as anything else, so there’s a lot about growing vegetables tucked in among the posts about flowers and shrubs, preserves and pastries and architecture and wild mushrooms and coyotes and

where was I?

Giving pointers on food gardening, I think. Here are a few posts that may prove helpful as we teeter on the brink of the 2010 growing season:

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After The Snow

At least I hope it’s after the snow. Today has been warm right through and sounding like rain, every gutter running, every eve dripping as the compacted layers slowly sink.

After the 1st and 2nd snowfalls, before the 3rd and 4th. That’s a 12 foot ladder

Up until a bit more than a week ago, I was in a pro-snow mood. Seemed like everyone else in the Eastern half of the country was having piles and piles of white beauty, while we had ugly patches of bare brown ground and nothing to ski on.

Be careful what you wish for.

When all is finally revealed, this viburnum will be about half as tall as it used to be. Those three broken leaders were due for pruning but I’d have preferred to choose where to cut without quite so much help.

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Beware the Voles! Radicchio’s Toast, but it’s not too late to Protect Trees and Shrubs

One more misery for this week: The valiant radicchio that made it through multiple nights down to 5 and 6 degrees was no match for the hungry voles, voles no doubt obscenely cosy in the warm double tunnel that was protecting the row. Wretched creatures have gobbled every single head.

Notice the nibbled edges on this baby and the large dark hole where a full sized head used to be.

I haven’t had the heart to look at the row  - on the other side of the garden – that I harvested extra carefully and then left covered in hopes of a super-early  spring crop. (Cutting the heads off just slightly above the base often results in regrowth, so if the weather is with you – and the voles aren’t – you get a flush of leaves and sometimes a whole new head as soon as the garden wakes up.)

Complete and utter carnage; somehow the scraps where a healthy root should be cause particular pain.

Too late now for the radicchio, but a good reminder to go out and check the viburnums and plums and

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Managing Late Blight Organically

Is probably impossible, but after losing all the tomatoes in New York, we’re trying to see if at least one of the Maine tomato patches ( 2 outdoors, one under plastic) can pull through and produce.

Organic management tools include:

Fungicide

Fertilizer

Being There

Being Careful

Being Realistic

Being fond of cherry tomatoes

And perhaps most importantly, Being a procrastinator – at least in our case… If I’d done all the tomato grafting I’d planned to do, there wouldn’t have been any leftovers in the greenhouse.

 Tomato plants in the greenhouse have so far escaped the blight.

Tomato plants in the greenhouse have so far escaped the blight.

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Blight, Rust, Mold, Rot, Slugs, Snails and Earwigs

are all the wages of a wet summer, but the greatest of these is Late Blight. Our resident mycologist has the scientific perspective – and as he is also our tomato maestro, a very heavy heart. Here is his report on the New York garden, with a full explanation of the disease and how it spreads:

LATE BLIGHT –PHYTOPHTHORA INFESTANS- SWEEPS THROUGH THE NORTHEAST

By Bill Bakaitis

I was in Maine when the word came in: Late Blight was laying waste to tomato fields in the Hudson Valley.  Oh, say it ain’t so I pleaded.  Leslie and I had been extra cautions this spring in starting from seed, setting out, cultivating, and protecting our tomatoes, fifty or so plants of some twenty or so varieties, mostly open pollinated heirlooms. They were specially grown from selected seed in our own greenhouse and in another in Maine; some heirlooms were painstakingly grafted onto disease resistant rootstock. The spacing was good. The plants were held up by a twine-between-post well-ventilated system, the ground carefully mulched with bright straw over paper, and all the lower branches were removed so as to exclude the transmission of soil borne pathogens. In addition the plants had been treated with Bacillus subtilis (Serenade tm) to protect against fungal infection. Say it ain’t so I prayed as I piled into the car and raced home through a driving rainstorm, thick as I had ever experienced.

But it was so.

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Getting Rid of Groundhogs, aka Woodchucks and Whistlepigs

If only. As a species of aggravation, Marmota monax, the largest and most pestilential member of the squirrel family is impossible to get rid of. There are a number of reasons we will get into in a moment.

First, however, the good news: you can get rid of one or more individuals, and that can often make the difference between having a harvest and not. Furthermore, you can get rid of them using a live trap, especially if you use one from Williams Trapping Supply.

young groundhog in live trap, about to take a trip

young groundhog in live trap, about to take a trip

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Rain and Rain and Rain Again, 5 Tips for Dealing With Constant Damp

In Maine, the chilly rain is now bidding fair to be every day for the entire month of June, and it’s not much better in the Hudson Valley. Or not much less rainy, anyway. It IS better there in general because it was warmer longer sooner, giving plants a good head start  - and the rain itself is warmer.

I keep telling myself this too shall pass – There’s photographic proof from last July, when Lois was painting in the garden.

There can be so much sun you need an umbrella for that

There can be so much sun you need an umbrella for that

But it’s difficult for me to listen to me, so I’m glad there are a few things I can do to help  avoid total catastrophe.

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Why Plants Are Variegated

Maybe. At least it’s a plausible explanation from what might be called a reliable source, the scientific journal Evolutionary Ecology.

Here’s the summary, with illustration and caption, from the BBC (photographer uncredited, unfortunately):

The Plant That Pretends to Be Ill

A leaf damaged by mining moths (left) compared to one faking it (right).

A leaf damaged by mining moths (left) compared to one faking it (right).

Short version is they do it to look sick, thus fooling the bugs that might make them sick into thinking they’ve already been drained of vitality.

Words cannot express my investment in this explanation, but if YOU have been expensively seduced (over and over) by some gorgeous variegated thing, only to find when you got it home and put it in the garden that it just looked sick, you will know what I mean.

Ladybug or Squash Beetle or Mexican Bean Beetle?

It can be hard to tell. The  squash and bean beetles are orange with black spots and so in many cases are the ladybugs, aka lady beetles.

Two clues:

1. The vegetable eaters are mostly on the vegetables they eat.

2. Most  of the common ladybugs have black heads; the pests don’t.

Ladybug, so glad to see you

Japanese, squash and bean varieties notwithstanding, beetles in the garden can be a very good thing. Here we see a lady beetle ( probably the Asian one, Harmonia axyridis, although I wouldn’t swear), working on the aphids in the trap crop lambs quarter.

leslie land ladybug-on-lambsquarter

When young, lambs quarter is one of the most delicious greens any garden can grow. As it ages and toughens, swarms of aphids come to infest it instead of your fava beans. Very convenient.

less good of the beetle, better of the aphids. Never eat anything bigger than your head.

Less good of the beetle, better of the aphids. Never eat anything bigger than your head.