All Recipes

Halloween Collectibles

Yes, Virginia, there is such a thing, and I’m not talking about the manufactured “collectibles” created each year for no other purpose.

Nope, this is your warning ( in case you didn’t already know) that elderly Halloween doodads, while not in the league of antique Christmas ornaments, are nevertheless worth more than you might think.

Not always a lot more

Candy container, plastic, from the 1950’s, spotted at a nearby shop

Candy container, plastic, from the 1950’s, spotted at a nearby shop

But sometimes, as in this example from the website of Showcase Antiques

“ Composition "Pumpkin Girl" candy container painted in tones of yellow, green, blue, red, and white; marked "Germany;" circa 1910. Height=4.5 Price: $795.00”

“ Composition "Pumpkin Girl" candy container painted in tones of yellow, green, blue, red, and white; marked "Germany;" circa 1910. Height=4.5 Price: $795.00”

In a normal year,  this wouldn’t come up; I’d just be merrily chirping along about how this is a good time to bake

Spicy Walnut Gingerfingers

Spicy Walnut Gingerfingers

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Banning the Bake Sale? Better you should be making Fat Banana Cookies

Every autumn there’s more of this: bake sales being swept up willy nilly in the (laudable! I’m for it!) attempt to get junk food out of the schools.

Sigh. When will these people wake up and smell the donuts? You don’t have to be Michael Pollan to realize American kids’ obesity problem isn’t caused by too many home made desserts, it’s caused by a crashing dearth of home made anything else.

When even well fed children are growing up thinking a carrot’s a machine-made toy, ready to eat right out of the bag, it’s hardly surprising to find that the default model for “food” is something you buy, not something you prepare at home. And from there it’s not rocket science to see the profitability of sugar, salt and fat.

But the solution isn’t to ban sugar, salt and fat per se (good luck with that, btw), it’s to give children a chance to combine these things into something really good and thus seduce them into the joys of home cooking. From there the rest is easy… Well, easier, anyway.

Point here is simply that people who know how to cook eat a lot less junk than people who don’t, and dessert is the gateway goodie – most children go for baking cookies before they get all excited about making boeuf bourguignon.

Case in point: Fat Banana Cookies, rich with fruit and nuts, simple to make, filling enough so just a few will do. Also durable; thanks to the banana they stay moist and tasty for a good long time.

The bananas get star billing because: a) plain brown cookies, what's to show? and b) I want to plug mini bananas, not only  a more sensible size, but also tastier, once they’re fully ripe. For richest flavor and creamiest texture they have to be well speckled with brown. This bunch is still just at the edge of being cookie material.

The bananas get star billing because: a) plain brown cookies, what's to show? and b) I want to plug mini bananas, not only a more sensible size but also tastier, once they’re fully ripe. For richest flavor and creamiest texture they have to be well speckled with brown. This bunch is still just at the edge of being cookie material.

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Multi-Cultural Shortcut Chicken (of the woods) Curry

A lot of wild mushrooms have delicate flavors that are easily overwhelmed. And a lot of them are typically found in small numbers or purchased in even smaller ones (except by the possessors of large dollars). As a result, a lot of wild  mushroom recipes have what might be called a reverential attitude about the signature ingredient.

Nothing wrong with that – except that it tends to carry over where it isn’t essential, as in the case of sulfur shelf, Laetiporus sulphureus, aka chicken of the woods. When you find that, you generally find many pounds, plenty enough to play around with.

This curry is an example. The mushroom flavor is only one among several but it's one that would be sorely missed if it were absent.

This curry is an example. The mushroom flavor is only one among several, but it's one that would be sorely missed if it were absent. The rice happens to have red peppers, gold raisins and pistachios. Just plain would be just as good or better.

I put “of the woods” in parentheses because I’m sure the curry would be good – albeit not this good –  with genuine chicken. The shortcut is prepared spice mixtures and the multi is Indian and Thai. Cooking the mushroom in coconut milk without a preliminary saute is what brings out the reds and pinks.

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Maine Fare Zucchini Squares – or Fritata or Pancakes or Tortilla

Thank you to all the demo visitors I met at Maine Fare Saturday – what a lot of great questions!

In answer to the most pressing one, here’s a link to the recipe for the zucchini squares you tasted and the instructions for freezing the raw material.

zucchini material as cake, cooked thicker and broiled browner

zucchini material as cake, cooked thicker and broiled browner

Cucumbers, Really a lot of ’em, and the World’s Easiest Pickles (or Salad)

“Really a lot” is really the right number because I’m doing a mega-testing of vegetable varieties and Rob Johnston (thanks, Rob!) has given me access to the trial fields at Johnny’s Selected Seeds. Combine that with help from Steve Bellavia, Johnny’s Vegetable Product Manager, and from Vegetable Product Technicians Andrew Mefford and Lauren Saraiva and what do you get? Among many other things, 34 varieties of cucumbers.

Cucumbers in the foreground, peppers (to come) in back

At Johnny's trial fields. Cucumbers in the foreground, peppers (to come) in back

There’s a different variety every 10 feet

and on each plate ( only a few shown here).

and on each plate ( only a few shown here).

Sample slices were taken from large and small fruits, from the blossom end and from the middle. Result in addition to many tasting notes: pounds and pounds of cut cucumbers that needed to be used up right away.

Easy PICKLESALADRELISH to the rescue.

Easy PICKLESorSALAD to the rescue.

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OLD FAITHFUL, The Little Black Dress of Chocolate Cakes

Old Faithful got its name by being a never-fail. It always comes out delicious – even when it isn’t textbook perfect – and it’s very chocolate. I’ve been making it for years and was reminded to put up the recipe when Emma came for an overnight and wanted to do some cooking. Just made one the other day and was reminded again… this may not seem like baking weather but people continue to be fond of cake.

 Emma learning the toothpick guide trick for splitting layer cakes

Emma learning the toothpick guide trick for splitting layer cakes

This person somehow became 16 when I wasn’t looking (or teaching her to cook), so we made roast chicken and chocolate cake, on my theory that armed with these two she would be ready for anything.

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Cherry Season – a Memory, and a Recipe for Real-Deal Brandied Cherries

 

By real deal I mean the cherries are fermented in the hooch, not simply given a quick bath.

Sweet cherries, before and after the full brandying treatment

Sweet cherries, before and after the full brandying treatment

Most popular recipes for brandied cherries require only combining the fruit with brandy and sugar.  Couldn’t be easier, and it’s delicious after sitting around for only a couple of days. Then after you put it in pretty jars and age it a while the cherries turn leathery and the liquid tastes just like cough syrup.

I made a lot of this stuff myself before I discovered that if you take the longer route, using less brandy and letting the mixture ferment, you end up with two good things: a fortified spirit that resembles port and firm, slightly velvety cherries that taste like themselves except for being drunk.

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Extending the Rhubarb Season (plus Rhubarb Peach Deep Dish Pie)

Did you keep cutting off the rhubarb flower buds, doing your best to extend the season by preventing

 

Rhubarb flowering instead of making pie material?

Rhubarb flowering instead of making pie material

If so, welcome to the club of “if only.”

Just about every rhubarb grower I know is convinced that removing the flower stalks will

a) keep the edible leaf stalks from growing tough and

b) encourage the plant to produce more of them,

and they are abetted in this belief by most of the published information on rhubarb growing, including that from reliable sources like universities and extension services.

Nevertheless, (a) is untrue and (b) applies mostly to the following season.

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Lilac Wine

lilac wine, make it now, drink it later

Who knew?  In my experience, most home made wine is awful and the stuff that’s good is only good in an everyday sort of way. But home made lilac wine – the only kind available, far’s I know – is terrific! (if you wait long enough).

Two very dusty bottles came with Bill when we set up housekeeping together back in 1991, and somehow instead of being cleaned off and consumed they got put in the cellar. 

Until the end of January, when for reasons I no longer remember we decided to open one. Revelation. We kept looking at each other, not quite believing. Read More…

Spring On Toast – Black Morels, Asparagus and Eggs

Also old-faithful walking onions, always the first to appear, and a handful of garlic chives, currently taking over the side bed that’s due for renewal and therefore has not been weeded at all.

leslie-land-black-morels-asparagus-and-eggs

Here in our part of the Hudson Valley, this year spring is on toast in more ways than one. I’m in the office with, I confess, the air conditioner on because none of the shade trees are leafed out yet and it’s 89 **!!@^%! Degrees. Same as yesterday and tomorrow and then on Tuesday it’s supposed to get hot.

phooey

The red tulips had one day! Truth. Buds cracked in the evening at bedtime on Friday, full open by noon Saturday, then exhausted by eveniing, just like the rest of us. The pink ones, admittedly, had been open for 2 days but I was rather enjoying them.

So. Looking at the forecast made this morning a nightmarish recap of fall, when you rush around picking all the flowers that will be blasted by frost. Read More…